The long drive across Argentina

El Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas was a very pleasant surprise. On the long drive from Mendoza to Cordoba, we spent a night at the park. We were not expecting such spectacular scenery or such an abundance of critters. The park has all kinds of landforms in different shades of red, orange and yellow. We saw foxes and massive hares all over the place, and we even saw an armadillo. We spent the night camping in the park and were treated to a fantastic sunset and very clear skies for stargazing. Anyway, our camp spot was pretty much decided for us after the number of malbec "sundowners" Torrey drank.

Every few kilometres on Argentina's roads there is some shrine or another for motorists to stop and ask for something of a popular saint. Most of these are unofficial saints, i.e. not recognized by the Catholic church.

The most common shrine is one dedicated to "Gauchito Gil". These are usually located in algarrobo trees, with red flags and ribbons hanging off the branches and small red housings for candles and assorted Gauchito Gil paraphernalia.

Gauchito Gil is a legendary folk hero dating back to the 1800s. He was a "Gaucho", or cowboy, who fought in a war against Paraguay, but refused to take part in a subsequent civil war. He became an outlaw, hunted by the authorities as a deserter. He basically became an Argentinian Robin Hood, until his capture by a local policeman. He was tortured, and hung by his feet in an algarrobo tree.

When the head policeman was about to kill him, Gauchito Gil said to him: "You can kill me, but you will arrive home tonight at the same time as a letter of my pardon. The letter also says your son is dying of a strange illness. If you pray and beg me to save your child, I promise you that he will live. If not, he will die". The head policeman, ignoring his words, killed Gauchito Gil by slitting his throat.

When the head policeman came back to his village, he returned to find that his son was very ill and at the brink of dying. Frightened, the policeman prayed to Gauchito Gil for his son to be saved. The next day, his son was found to be inexplicably cured, and legend has it that Gauchito Gil had healed his murderer's son. Very grateful, the policeman gave Gil's body a proper burial and built a tiny shrine for the Gauchito in his honor.

A few roadside shrines dedicated to Gauchito Gil

Another common roadside shrine is dedicated to "Difunta Correa". These shrines are characterised by huge mounds of bottles filled with water. 

According to popular legend, Deolinda Correa was a woman whose husband was forcibly recruited around the year 1840, during the Argentine civil wars. Becoming sick, he was then abandoned by his fellow troops. In an attempt to reach her sick husband, Deolinda took her baby and followed the tracks of the troops through the desert of San Juan Province. When her supplies ran out, she died. Her body was found days later by gauchos who were driving cattle through, and to their astonishment found the baby still alive, feeding from the deceased woman's "miraculously" ever-full breast. Her followers believe that the survival of her baby was her first miracle, and that she continues to perform miracles for those who ask.

A few shrines of water bottles as offerings to Difunta (deceased) Correa