Oaxaca

Pronounced waa-haa-kaa, Oaxaca is a state in southern Mexico. We spent a few days in the city of the same name. 

The City is home to the Monte Alban and Mitla ruins, which are spectacular. We also visited Hierve el Agua, a petrified waterfall and natural infinity pool in the mountains. 

These mountains also took the time to point out that we have two leaks in radiator hoses. Thanks mountains.

Oaxaca is known for food including mole (a savoury chocolate sauce served over meat), and tlayudas (various toppings on a pizza sized crisp tortilla), as well as mezcal, which is basically tequila, but is not limited to blue agave.

Above, the ruins at Mitla, which are unique due to the stone mosaic decorations. The Spaniards built their church here directly on top of one of the pyramids.

Above, Hierve el Agua, which is a series of natural pools and a 'petrified waterfall',

high up in the mountains of Oaxaca.

Above, the ruins at Monte Alban, which was the ancient Zapotec capital from around 

500 BC to 950 AD. The site has stunning 360 degree views of the surrounding country, which is doubtless why the Zapotecs chose this location for their capital.

Holy Megatropolis Mexico City!

Yep its a pretty sizeable town nestled high in the mountains. After some dire warnings about traffic and the driving style of chilangos (Mexico City's locals), the Gladiator braved the freeways and emerged victorious.

In the city we visited the famous Zocalo, the massive town square and site of the presidential palace. This square was also the site of the Aztec capital. Cortes decided to just plonk his capital on top of it. Near the Zocalo, we visited the Secretary of Public Education building with 120-odd fascinating Diego Rivera murals lining its courtyards.

We also had a big night out where we visited the lucha libre wrestling (Mexican WWF with cool masks), and hit up a rooftop Xmas party.

We were lucky enough to meet Jerry, then Josephine, through couch surfing. They put us up, gave us all kinds of tips for what to see and do in the DF, and helped us with our Spanish. 

Teotihuacan: where men became gods

It sounds like a tagline to a Hollywood movie, but this is the name of an impressive archaeological site just north of Mexico City.

This site is the ancient capital of the Teotihuacan people, Mexico's largest pre-hispanic empire. After this society collapsed in around 600 AD, the site was occupied by various others, including the Aztecs many centuries later (and up until the Spanish rolled in to town). The Aztecs were in awe of the abandoned city and believed it was built by the gods.

The city was a planned grid area dotted with temples, plazas and pyramids. The Calzada de los Muertos (the Avenue of the Dead) is the main strip running north to south. The two biggest pyramids are the Piramide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon), and the Piramide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun). The latter is the third biggest pyramid in the world. 

We are now in Mexico City- we braced ourselves for a crazy drive through this sprawling metropolis of 20 odd million people, but it wasn't that much worse than driving around some parts of Auckland. Here is one of our favourite musical acts from DF if you want something good to listen to:

Central Pacific Coast

We are now headed inland after an eventful couple weeks on the coast. We visited sleepy San Blas, pretty Los Platanitos, friendly La Penita, low key San Pancho, crowded Sayulita, modern Puerto Vallarta, racoon-infested Melaque, and barreling Pascuales.

We finally found some surf, and spent a few days at the fun beach break of San Pancho and again at the famous heavy barreling Pascuales. 

The trip was not without incident. We were raided at night by a crafty gang of racoons, had our first military check point search (surprisingly friendly and courteous), and suffered a couple of mechanical issues. 

Luckily there is a mechanic workshop on every corner in Mexico, and they are cheap, honest, and good. One guy rebuilt our alternator with refurbished spare parts- it took him hours and he charged the equivalent of $20 (we threw in a couple of beers for good measure). Another mechanic spent a few hours welding our exhaust that was mangled in a few places, and that only cost about $70. Adios catalytic converter.

We are now heading through the central highlands to Mexico City.

Ba dap ba ba dap ba dap dap, tequila!

We recently visted the home of tequila, a small town called Tequila (funny that) in the state of Jalisco. This is were the likes of Jose Cuervo decided to set up shop.

We have both stopped thinking of tequila as something you do shots of then regret the next day. Good tequila can be sipped like a decent whiskey. The Gladiator now has a bottle at all times, ready to share with guests.

Tequila is made from the pina (heart) of the blue agave plant. The pina is steamed, fermented, distilled, and often aged. Mexican tequila laws (similar concept to the USA bourbon laws) tightly control quality of Mexican tequila. 

Go grab yourself a bottle, and pop this track on to get you in the mood:

Spanish 101

Since we dropped ourselves in the deep end of the espanol pool with no training, we are rapidly trying to learn spanish. Here are a few crucial phrases you can use, should you find yourself in a spanish speaking country and need to take care of business:

1) Estoy apprendiendo espanol - I am learning Spanish (I think this is more proactive than "no hablo espanol")

2) Mas despacio por favor - <say that> more slowly please

3) Todo bien - sweet as

4) Como se dice...... - how do you say......<in Spanish>

5) Estoy lleno - I am full (handy if your new Mexican family is feeding you too much)

6) Es segura? - is it safe? (can be used in conjunction with your index finger and a road map)

7) Necessito una cerveza - I need a beer (conveys more urgency than "una cerveza por favor" - one beer please)

8) Estamos conduciendo a Argentina - we are driving to Argentina.



Kellie and I are going to try to speak only Spanish to each other tomorrow. We really need to do some kind of formal training though.

Hmmm need a picture to go with this post...here is a picture of my beautiful girlfriend happily eating ceviche on the beach.

Back on the Pacific Coast

The Gladiator has made it back to the coast! After being largely landlocked for a few months, we are back to our favourite ocean. We have spent a couple days in San Blas, and we are heading south this afternoon after a boat trip to see some crocodiles and birds. Only hitch in my plans is that there is no swell at the moment...

San Luis Potosi

We stopped into San Luis Potosi and ended up staying five nights with our new Mexican family. We met Maelena through couchsurfing, and she invited us to stay with her amazing family. Maelena, Rosa, Dora, Samuel, Dora (again), and Fernando showed us the sights of San Luis Potosi, and really looked after us. Dora and Fernando spoke only Spanish to us to help us learn.

We also went camping at La Laguna de Media Luna. A warm, clear, freshwater spring fed lake in the countryside. Great for snorkelling and scuba diving.